An Interview with Lydia Brearley: Bridging Sustainability and Accessibility

WORDS BY Hannah Rasekh

14 Nov 2024

Simplifying Sustainability

Hannah: Enkel’s mission is to cut through the noise and make sustainability in fashion accessible for everyone. What are some of the biggest misconceptions or myths you encounter that keep sustainability out of reach for brands? And how do you go about breaking down these barriers in a way that sticks?

Lydia: One of the biggest challenges I’ve seen, especially when I first started, is the assumption that sustainability is too complex or too costly to implement, so it often gets set aside. But in many cases, sustainability is really about simplifying—streamlining processes that might cost the business money without adding value. It’s about looking closely at what the business actually stands for and then embedding sustainability where it will make the most impact. A common approach I see is, ‘We want to be more sustainable, so let’s add a resale platform.’ But sustainability isn’t just a single initiative—it affects every part of the business. Many companies struggle with where to begin, which is why it’s so important to step back and look at the whole model. What area will actually create real impact? Starting there, with a focus, is essential. Another layer is that many sustainable business models are still unproven. Companies can’t just switch from one way of working to another overnight. They need to test new concepts and see if they can build viable revenue streams or reduce production demand. But naturally, there’s caution—it’s a balance between exploring sustainable options and staying profitable. That’s why a thoughtful, gradual approach is often the best path forward.

Talking a Big Talk

Hannah: Brands often claim to support repair as part of their sustainability pledge, but how many are actually investing in scalable repair solutions? From your perspective, what would it take for brands to go beyond words and make repair a core part of their business model—and what might be holding them back?

Lydia: Until just a few years ago, companies might have had someone who touched on sustainability or compliance as a part of their job, but there wasn’t a dedicated team to see it through. This made it difficult to fully integrate sustainability into the core of the business. Now, we’re seeing businesses that are truly investing in sustainability—not just by hiring teams but by embedding it into their business models and evolving with it. These are the companies that are genuinely committed and poised to drive lasting change. On the other hand, there are businesses that might approach sustainability more superficially, maybe with a pop-up project here or a trial initiative there, but without fully integrating it into their core strategy. Those companies, I think, might face challenges in making a real impact.

Repair as a Brand Strategy

Hannah: It’s a problem we continue to see I guess. Many brands are beginning to offer repair and care services, but some see it as just another profit stream rather than a commitment to sustainability. Do you think these services are sometimes used as a marketing ploy rather than genuine efforts to support circularity?

Lydia: We’re definitely seeing this a lot with resale— which is why many brands are quickly jumping on the opportunity to add a resale platform. But because resale is still a new space, brands need to show that it can genuinely drive revenue before relying on it to offset production. While many are forming partnerships, true success comes from embedding resale into the core business model, with a commitment to long-term partnerships rather than one-off projects. Finding the right partner and proving resale as a sustainable revenue stream takes time, but when done thoughtfully, it becomes a valuable, enduring part of a brand’s proposition. And the same goes for other circular solutions like repair.

Scaling Repair

Hannah: We’re obviously seeing massive growth in the repair industry, with repair services becoming more and more popular. Do you think the onus is on brands to subsidise these services, or should consumers be expected to pay for care and repair services?

Lydia: It’s really interesting because, ultimately, there will always be a cost associated with repairs—everything, no matter how it’s made, experiences wear and tear over time. Brands that incorporate a warranty or repair service within a certain timeline, essentially building aftercare into the point of sale, help customers understand the lifetime value of the product. Take, for example, a handbag that comes with included polishing and cleaning services. This approach adds clear value to the customer. Some brands are even displaying the resale value at the point of sale, showing customers that if they spend a certain amount, they can expect a return on investment when they resell it later. This really enhances the customer experience. I think the brands that successfully integrate these services into the sale will build strong trust and loyalty with their customer base.

Circularity and Luxury Brands

Hannah: That’s interesting especially when it comes to luxury. Luxury brands traditionally market their products as those that “stand the test of time”. Do you think the concept of circularity challenges the luxury industry's core values, and if so, how can luxury brands evolve while staying true to their identity?

Lydia: "What’s fascinating about luxury brands today is that their pieces are like art—especially as prices rise and these items become even more aspirational and exclusive. The value of getting these pieces repaired adds to their story, especially with heritage pieces. I recently saw someone wearing her grandmother’s coat at a talk, and it was beautiful—a testament to the craftsmanship and durability that let it be passed down and worn for years. This storytelling aspect, the lifetime of a product and the story it tells, is becoming so meaningful. Another exciting aspect is the ability to repair and personalise pieces, adding a unique twist that makes them even more special. That personal touch can give the item an additional layer of value. In luxury, I think this will bring the role of service and customer experience to a whole new level. Offering aftercare, follow-ups, and engaging with the customer beyond the sale will be more crucial than ever in the luxury market, redefining what customers expect from a luxury brand.”

Global Perspective on Sustainability

Hannah: With your work spanning across Europe, what differences do you see in how regions approach circularity in fashion? Are there best practices from certain areas that you believe should be more widely adopted?

Lydia: Since moving to Sweden, I've noticed how standardisation plays a big role in the repair market. IKEA, for example, has standardised many of its spare parts, making it easier to access and use them for repairs. Traditionally, repairing has been less accessible due to higher costs and logistical challenges, making buying new items more appealing. But when brands make components standardised and readily available, it makes repairs much easier and more attractive. We’re also seeing innovation in France, where extended producer responsibility (EPR) and Refashion have set the stage for a focus on repair and circularity since the early 2000s. This shift brings back the focus on heritage skills and craftsmanship, which has faded over the years.

Legislation's Role in Sustainability

Hannah: With Enkel’s focus on understanding industry regulations, what legislative changes would you most like to see to support circular practices in fashion? How can brands proactively align with future policies?

Lydia: There’s so much changing in the industry right now. Extended Producer Responsibility (EPR) is particularly interesting because it shifts brands' focus from purely driving sales to thinking about the full lifecycle of their products—how they’re designed, what materials are used, and how they impact waste. EPR is already being adopted in places like California and France, and it’s set to dramatically reshape how brands approach product development. Textile recycling is another major shift, recognizing waste as a valuable resource and emphasising the lifetime value of materials. It’s turning traditional industry practices on their head. Digital product passports are also exciting—they’ll allow brands to connect with consumers in new ways and could bring together industries that haven’t collaborated as closely before. But this will be challenging, especially with fragmented supply chains and the need to collect and verify so much data. It’s a big shift, but one filled with opportunity.

Role of Technology in Circularity

Hannah: And lastly, how do you see technology supporting circular practices, particularly in areas like repair, resale, and tracking sustainability metrics?

Lydia: I think tech will have a huge part to play in enabling and facilitating making repairs and circular business models accessible to consumers. Up until recently, repairs have not been widely available and accessible from a pricing point of view, meaning customers would often choose buying new over repairing what they already owned. With a huge shift in consumer perspectives, awareness and behaviour around longevity, repair is becoming more aspirational and accessible in the industry. The success of this is hugely down to customer experience and tech and media will enable brands to provide exceptional customer service to build loyalty, trust and engagement with their customer base.Whether its service updates on repairs, complimentary cleaning, resale value updates or rental opportunities, brands can connect with consumers and maximise and optimise the value potential of their wardrobes.

Through the introduction of Digital Product Passports (DPPs), brands can also understand more about the user-phase of their products - giving valuable insights which can then be used in the development of new product ranges, steering quality and design decisions to maximise the lifetime value of a product. Brands will also be able to track their products through to end-of-life phase, understanding the value in the materials of their products and how these can be recaptured back in the value chain. Waste is becoming a valuable resource in the industry so understanding the waste streams will be vital for brands to steer future product development and material choice.

Conclusion: Championing a Sustainable Future in Fashion with Lydia Brearley

Lydia Brearley’s commitment to sustainable fashion embodies a pivotal shift in the industry toward responsibility and circularity. Her journey, from witnessing environmental degradation firsthand to establishing Enkel and the Sustainable Fashion School, serves as a roadmap for brands looking to make meaningful change. Key insights from Lydia's interview include:

Holistic Sustainability: Effective sustainability isn’t a one-off initiative. Lydia underscores the need for brands to embed sustainability into their entire business model, moving beyond short-term projects to embrace a gradual, phased approach that ensures impactful change.
Repair & Resale as Core Strategies: Integrating services like repair and resale can redefine brand loyalty and profitability. Lydia highlights that repair, when built into a brand's core, is an investment in customer trust and product longevity, aligning with the values of conscious consumers.
The Power of Technology: Tools like Digital Product Passports (DPPs) are revolutionising circular practices. By tracking product life cycles, brands gain insights into consumer behaviour and material longevity, enabling them to optimise products for extended use and future recyclability.
Aligning with Emerging Legislation: Lydia stresses the importance of proactive adaptation to industry regulations, such as Extended Producer Responsibility (EPR), which encourages brands to consider product lifecycles from design to disposal.
Education & Knowledge Sharing: Through Enkel and the Sustainable Fashion School, Lydia bridges knowledge gaps for both industry leaders and future fashion professionals, empowering them with tools to navigate a rapidly evolving landscape.

As the industry shifts, Brearley’s dedication highlights that sustainable practices are not only feasible but essential, inspiring brands to adopt a thoughtful, circular approach that aligns with consumer expectations and supports a healthier planet.